Day 6, Rotorua NZ — December 7, 2003

We made the trip up the mountain to the land of Mordor today. The Whakapapa area, where Mordor was filmed, is home to one of the few active volcanoes in New Zealand. The dark, rocky landscape was filled with the constant aroma of sulpher and ash. It was little wonder they chose this area for filming Mordor.
Unfortunately I caught a bit of travelers flu today. I wasnÂ’t able to climb up the mountain with the rest of the group, opting instead for a nap in the car. The rest of the day was a wash for me, too sick to do anything but sleep and moan.
After the mountain we stopped at the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute for a bit of shopping. While most of the group went inside, the rest checked us in to the hotel and dropped me off so I could sleep in something a bit more comfortable than the back seat of a station wagon.

Day 5 – Ohakune NZ, December 6, 2003

We decided to skip the granola breakfast served at the bed and breakfast. Four of us walked downtown and hit the McDonalds. McDonald’s food is pretty much the same wherever you go. The bacon, I was surprised to see, was actually crispy unlike the rest of the bacon I’ve had here. They also had a super Sausage McMuffin, which was double the meat and cheese. Afterwards we headed back and checked out of our rooms. Today was the start of our road trip and we were all excited to leave.

We drove through some of the most beautiful countryside that I’ve ever seen. Fields of green with fluffy white dots of sheep grazing filled the landscape. We even saw several deer farms. We passed a sign pointing to an Emu farm. Apparently we’ll see some when we reach the south island next week.

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Day 4, Wellington NZ — December 5, 2003

The day started off with a quick bite of breakfast, toast and some sort of nut mixture turned into cereal. It was different but in a good way. Apparently Vegemite is a popular spread in New Zealand but neither of us was brave enough to try it, especially after smelling it.
We picked up the second of the groupÂ’s rental cars and headed out. We drove to and walked through several sites: Kaitoke (Rivendell), Upper Hutt (Isengard Gardens, River Anduin), and Dry Creek Quarry (Helm’s Deep). Rivendell was pretty neat. All of the structure was digital but I was able to climb down to the river and take some neat pictures.
For lunch we stopped off at a little bakery for some meat pie. Steak and Cheese. Yummy.
The afternoon trip was much more exhausting. We drove around to various landmarks in the area. We passed Weta DigitalÂ’s headquarters. I saw someone that looked a lot like Liv Tyler getting out of a car and walking into the building. I got that on videotape but I havenÂ’t looked at it close enough to know if it was her or not. It was surprising to see that there were houses right next to Weta. I wouldnÂ’t have thought that it would be set right in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We drove around to the back of Weta and paused to take a picture or two. The back of the building has big floor-to-ceiling windows in the offices and there were several people standing in front of the window when we stopped. We were all giggling quite madly when they returned our waves. IÂ’m sure theyÂ’re used to tourists stopping by to gawk by now.
We played in the ocean for a while and then stopped by the Chocolate Fish Café for some refreshment. Apparently it was a favorite hangout spot for the actors when they were filming. It’s a nice little place on the beachfront. Having your tea and biscuit can be a bit tricky when the wind is blowing but it was still fun to do.
Apparently we were rested enough so we jumped back into the car and drove up Mount Victoria. ItÂ’s breathtaking to stand atop the mountain and look down on the land all around you. We watched planes land and take-off from the Wellington Airport and spotted the Apple store in the downtown centre.
Heading down the mountain we stopped to find the trail that was used to film the “Get off the road” scene from the Fellowship of the Ring. Armed with our location guidebook, we went off down the wrong trail, a very steep incline that ended in an abrupt drop-off. After trudging back up that path we found the right one, took the obligatory pictures and headed back up the car. My legs haven’t stopped hurting yet. I have a feeling that by the time I get home I’m going to be in better shape than I have in ages.
We closed the night with a big dinner at Mollie Malones, an Irish bar and pub in downtown Wellington. The food was a bit pricy but well worth it. WeÂ’re still having a great time and looking forward to heading out of Wellington in the morning. So far our stay has been limited to the big cities of New Zealand and weÂ’re looking forward to seeing more of the countryside.

Day 3, Wellington NZ — December 4, 2003

The second greatest thrill known to man is flying. The greatest is landing. That dandy little saying is brought to you by the IHOP we stopped at on Day 2. The particular truth of it was revealed today after finally arriving in Wellington after thirteen hours of flying. We also lost the entire day of Wednesday in the process, thanks to that pesky International Date Line thing.
Aside for some minor turbulence the trip across the Pacific Ocean was long and uneventful (as opposed to short and eventful). Everything was going great until we missed our connecting flight in Auckland. Tired, hungry, thirsty and very stinky we made our way what felt like several city blocks to the domestic flight building and managed to secure seats on the next flight an hour later.
ItÂ’s a strange feeling to think that we left Los Angeles on Tuesday night and arrived in New Zealand on Thursday morning. The rest of our group met us in the terminal in Wellington and lead us on a short tour of the airport. On display were armor from both sides in the war for middle-earth. Further down the corridor was a fantastic display containing the fireplace from Bag End, pieces of Rivendell and other various sets from the movies. New Zealand is certainly living up to its reputation as the land of middle-earth.
Next we drove to the guest house we are staying at in Wellington. ItÂ’s a nice little place a few blocks from the downtown area. I donÂ’t know if it was the fact that we hadnÂ’t bathed in close to thirty hours or the blasting jets of hot water but I think the shower we took when we arrived is the best IÂ’ve ever had.
After we took a breather and put on fresh clothes, Annie, Melanie, Dena and myself headed downtown and found a nice little English pub to have lunch at. Dena and I split an order of nachos and, without thinking, I said sure when he asked if we wanted bacon on it. I totally forgot that bacon isnÂ’t served crispy like it is back home. It turns out that itÂ’s more like slices of Canadian bacon, more like ham than anything. It turned out to be quite good, with a slightly sweet barbeque sauce and seasoned tortilla chips. WeÂ’ve wanted around the area a bit until we finally wound up in a little shopping center where weÂ’re filling out postcards, updating our journals and saving some energy for tonight. Tonight we get to see The Fellowship of the Ring: Extended Edition in the Embassy Theatre, home of the Lord of the Rings trilogy.
WeÂ’re going to be dead tired by the time we get back to the room, but itÂ’s worth it. I havenÂ’t heard all the details for tomorrow but I believe it involves driving around and seeing local sites around the city.

Day 2, Los Angeles — December 2, 2003

We started off the day with a hearty breakfast at IHOP. The waitress laughed at us when we all ordered nearly the same breakfast – a western skillet with sausage (bacon for me) and eggs over easy.
Since we skipped Santa Monica yesterday we decided to make it our first stop of the day. We took a long drive north and west until we finally reached the city. We passed by 3rd street, which someone recommended to me as a good place to stop, but the glimpse of the great blue sea had caught our eyes. We pulled over next to a park that overlooked the pier and took some pictures. There were quite a few homeless people in the park. I suppose if I were to live on the streets I would pick a warm spot, too. The homeless of Los Angeles that we saw were rather subdued compared to other large cities IÂ’ve been in (Chicago and San Francisco come to mind). The only odd moment was when I saw two men sitting on benches around an artillery gun in the park passing a homemade pipe back and forth.
We were getting bored with seeing the ocean from a distance so we jumped back in the truck and drove down to the pier. IÂ’ve seen pictures of Santa Monica Pier before, mostly on TV or in the movies. It was the middle of the day (noon by my watch; ten in the morning local time) on a weekday so there were no crowds to be seen. It was nice to see the pier while things were slow. There were old men standing or sitting around the railing with fishing poles at hand and a few kids hanging around the arcade. The rest of the people there were tourists like us, shooting pictures of things that are no doubt mundane to the locals but fascinating to use visitors.
Back down the pier and on to the beach we went. Groups of children ran around – part of a school group learning about the oceanfront. Dena and Annie were smart and wore sandals and dabbled their toes in the cold Pacific waters. There was a pretty good tide coming in and they both got splashed. It was fun.
Back to the truck and we were off again. After about two hours of driving we decided that it would have been a really good idea to pick up a decent map. We finally got lucky and found our next destination, Mann’s Chinese Theatre. We parked and ran out in front of the theatre and joined the crowd of tourists taking in the sights. Next time we come to LA we know where to get tickets to TV tapings. We were offered seats to three different shows while walking around that block. Unfortunately we were running low on time or we would have grabbed the tickets to the Jimmy Kimbel Show. It was neat seeing the stars on the sidewalk that lined that block and the hand and foot prints in the concrete in front of the theatre. None of that was as cool as what happened next. We were across the street, walking towards the theatre so we could get a good shot from a distance. We noticed a slight commotion ahead in front of a restaurant and a limo pull up in front of it. We walk up to see what’s going on and Alice Cooper walks out of the burger joint. Apparently he only signs one autograph per public sighting so by the time I got my camera ready he was already climbing into the car. I think I managed to capture a frame or two of him, but I’ll need to dig out the video camera to find out (and I’m in the airport now). As I was standing there trying to catch a glimpse a scraggly man who could have easily been mistaken for a homeless guy stepped up to the open door and leaned in to talk to Alice. They talked for a few minutes and it was only as he was walking away down the sidewalk that I caught his name – Rob Zombie. My first thought was, “Jorge isn’t going to believe this!” (Jorge being a fellow brother of all things Metal). I snapped a few photos of him. It was hard to tell if it really was the famed rocker or not. He looked…normal. Wearing old jeans and a ball cap, I would have passed him on the street and never taken a second look. I guess that’s one advantage to costume and makeup when in the public eye. Take it all off and it’s not quite so easy to recognize you.
We spent a good forty minutes or so walking around Hollywood Blvd., but finally it was time to go. We still needed to grab some lunch and drop off the rental.
Now, itÂ’s just after ten at night (eight local) and weÂ’re sitting in the terminal at gate 27, counting the minutes (one hundred and eleven, the same number as Bilbo when he left the Shire) until our plane departs. Our fourth traveling companion, Melanie, has just arrived and is up at the service counter getting her boarding pass printed. We managed to arrange for the four of us to sit together on the twelve-hour flight across the Pacific.
Because of the way the time change works, weÂ’ll leave here on Tuesday evening and arrive just after seven in the morning on Thursday. ItÂ’s going to be a little weird keeping our days straight at first but IÂ’m sure weÂ’ll manage it alright. On the return flight weÂ’ll actually touch down in Los Angeles before we leave New Zealand. Pretty nifty, eh?
IÂ’d been told by a few people that getting wireless internet access in Los Angeles Airport is a piece of cake but apparently theyÂ’ve never been to this international terminal. In order to get online I would need to walk back through security and down two or three terminals. Thanks, but no thanks. I even fired up MacStumbler and walked around the terminal in hopes of finding a signal but again I was denied. Once we reach Wellington IÂ’ll be able to find some way of getting online and posting this.
The first short leg of our journey is complete. WeÂ’ve made it from Chicago to Los Angeles and just like Sam and Frodo as they left the shire, our small fellowship is about to take another step and be farther from home than weÂ’ve ever been before. Onward we go.

Day 1 – Los Angeles, December 1, 2003

The limo showed up precisely at four in the morning. I think this was only my second time riding in a limousine. The trip to the airport was flawless. I think most of the holiday traffic had left on Sunday and we were on the road too early for the Monday morning commute to congest the interstate.

After a short delay due to the cold Chicago weather wreaking havoc on the sanitation systems on the airport (I don’t want to think what froze in those pipes) we were in the air and on our way to the great city of Los Angeles. We flew a bit over four hours and got to watch “Seabiscuit” on the way. Aside from the cramped seats it was a comfortable flight.

The single smartest thing we did in Los Angeles was rent a car. I’d never rented a car before but Dena convinced me it would be a good idea. We had made a reservation with Enterprise and when we got there they offered us an upgrade to an SUV for five bucks. How can you pass that up? Plus, since I drive a Jeep Grand Cherokee now I wanted something I’d be comfortable driving around unfamiliar streets.

Armed with the inadequate freebie map from Enterprise we headed out on to the mean streets of LA. We headed north, originally intending to go to Santa Monica and the beach but we sidetracked a bit and ended up in Beverly Hills. We kept heading north and west, through the sexually diverse streets of West Hollywood and the bright lights of Hollywood. While driving through tinsel town we spotted the landmark “HOLLYWOOD” sign through a brief break in the fog/smog. We veered north to Griffin Park and parked near the Griffin Observatory. From there we trekked on foot up the mountain a bit and took some pictures. By that time we it was about two in the afternoon and we were getting tired after the little sleep the night before. Back to the car we went, but not without a vow that we’d have to come back to Los Angeles again when we had more time and hike all the way up to the top.

Our strategy through the entire stay in LA was to take as many city streets as possible. We wanted to see as much as we could and driving via freeway wasn’t the way to do it. We were making our way south towards the hotel when we ran into the La Brea Tar Pits. Well, not literally run into them. That would have been a sticky situation. Ha-ha. We stopped and took a short walk around one of the tar pits. It was neat to see the bubbling eruptions of methane gas on the surface of the gooey surface.

From there we headed due south until we found the Ramada Plaza Hotel I booked online. After some of the dives we passed in LA I was glad to see that this was a pleasant surprise. We rolled in and registered. When I asked the clerk at the desk if they had internet access in-room, she replied affirmative in a cheerful voice. Apparently to them, internet access means either plunking down twelve bucks for webtv-like access or use a phone line for the low, low price of fifty cents a minute. I could care less. I just wanted to freshen up.

After a bit we decided to grab a bite to eat. None of us felt like going to the bar and grill attached to the hotel so we ventured back out. We managed to hunt down an In-and-Out Burger near the airport and showed Annie what a proper milkshake is supposed to taste like. The only other In-and-Out Burger we’d been to was in Las Vegas and once is enough to hook you.

We dragged our full bellies back to the hotel and at the late hour of eight (six local time) we passed out. Despite the hard mattress we managed a solid eleven hours of blissful sleep.

Leaving on a jet plane

In just over 30 hours we’ll be climbing into the limo that takes us to the airport. The first leg of our trip will take us from the friendly confines of O’Hare to the urban expanse of Los Angeles. We will spend a day and a half there and then we will be on our way to the land of Kiwi.

We have quite a bit planned during our trip, but I expect as much to happen unplanned as planned. Instead of talking about all of those plans now I have committed to writing about the trip each day. I’ll take a few minutes each morning or evening and try to share a little bit of my experiences. I’ll even combine them with pictures taken that day. I don’t know how often I’ll be able to get online while I’m abroad. I know that internet cafes are common in some parts of the country, so I’ll see what I can do.

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Thinking different

After a long day of writing image filters (detecting diagonal lines embedded in an image is more complex than it seems), I finally decided to take a break and install the newest OS release from Apple, Panther.
My 12″ iBook, an 800Mhz G3, is a nice little machine, a bit slow but reliable and great for writing. It’s easy to throw it in my bag and sling it around my shoulder and the battery life is great. Still, the minor but noticable sluggishness always bothered me a bit. I listened carefully to reviews by the early adopters when Panther was first released a few weeks ago. The reports of increased performance filled me with anticipation.
The installation process went as smooth as could be expected, which is always a good thing. Copy new files, optimize, reboot and it was done. Perfectly.
I ran the upgraded system through my normal pattern of usage: listen to music with iTunes, chat via iChat and XChat and write via Word. Those early reports I had read were more accurate than I expected. Everything seemed to run smoother. Even iTunes, which is arguably the most intensive application I run on OS X, ran smooth. All in all, a very pleasant upgrade experience. With previous complaints about sluggish behavior gone and the extended battery life of the iBook (around 5 hours per charge), I expect to enjoy my mobile computing experience while abroad in New Zealand. I plan on keeping a daily journal of our travels and experiences while overseas and I can’t bring myself to bust out the pen and paper again.

Confessions of a Car Salesman

I read a very interesting article today. Edmunds.com hired veteran journalist Chandler Phillips to go undercover at two new car dealerships in Los Angeles. The result of Phillips’ adventure is nothing short of amazing. If you’ve ever bought a new car and gone through the hassle of haggling with the salesman knows what a futile effort it can be.

At times Michael became very excited as he thought of new things to teach me. At one point he said, “Oh! This is a good one! This is how you steal the trade-in.” He looked around quickly to make sure no one overheard him. “When you’re getting the numbers from the desk, they’ll ask if the customer has a trade-in. Say it’s a ’95 Ford Taurus. And say you took it to the used car manager and he evaluated it and said he would pay four grand for it. If you can get the trade for only three, that’s a grand extra in profit.

We bought a new car earlier this year and it was interesting to see the parallels in my own experience as the buyer. The article opened my eyes to the car buying process in a way I didn’t expect. I’ll be better prepared the next time we go to buy a car. I won’t be nearly as trusting of the salesman, no matter how personable he seems to be. It’s an intimidating process, especially when it gets down to the financing process. Forewarned is forearmed.

Here lies Billy the Kid…maybe

During the summer of 1999 Dena and I drove through a small, dusty town in New Mexico and stopped at the Old Fort Sumner Museum which perported to hold the one, true grave of William H. Bonney, a.k.a. Billy the Kid. It was a small tourist trap with the requisite gift shop and handful of antiquities. Behind the store was a small, fenced-in field that contained, among other things, a chipped and weathered grave marker.

Billy the Kid?

The debate over the final resting place of Billy the Kid has been around for years. The battle is now reaching a fevered pitch, as reported by MSNBC. Local officials are now petitioning to have the body of Billy the Kid’s mother in an effort to extract DNA in order to settle the controversy once and for all.

The part of the debate I find interesting is the historical importance of the identity of Billy the Kid versus milking the tourist value of the 122-year-old legend. Personally, I think this boils down to a regional battle between the various groups that claim to control the true grave of the kid. Whichever is proven to be the true resting place of the legendary marauder will become more popular than ever and the losers will fade into the background. It would be nice to know the truth, but there is a certain beauty in the mystique of an unsolved mystery.